WINTER 2024 / 2025
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Normandy Scallops (Saint-Jacques) - St. Agur and Bacon Soup Recipe - Restaurant L'Envie des Mets -
Chinese Restaurants in France - Omelette de Mère Poulard - Fougères Market and the Castle - Restaurant La Forge
NORMANDY SCALLOPS - SAINT-JACQUES
Scallops fished off the Normandy coast are recognised as the ultimate shell fish served in the very best restaurants throughout France. Not surprisingly the local fisherman who catch these prized shells nickname them 'L'or blanc de la mer' - the white gold of the sea.
In France, scallops are called 'Saint-Jacques' and you will see them for sale in markets and on many menus across France. The reason for the French name is that the scallop shell is synonymous with pilgrims and the Camino de Santiago. All pilgrim routes across Europe towards Santiago de Compostela are marked at regular intervals with a scallop shell aiding the pilgrims on their journey. Legend has it that the Disciple Saint James body was to be taken to Santiago for burial, on route the ship was wrecked in a storm and his body was later found washed ashore and covered in scallop shells.
Scallop quality guarantees are very important, especially as poor quality frozen scallops are being imported. To defend their businesses and the quality, Norman fishermen have obtained under EU law, an official recognition of their superior quality. So when buying scallops look for the 'Labels Rouge Certification' which is only issued to those scallops caught off the Normandy coast. In restaurants scallops should be fresh during the winter season, however if you see scallops on a menu in summer the likelihood is that these are frozen and may have been imported.
Scallops have been fished here for centuries thriving on the sea bed in the cool water of La Manche (English Channel) in the Baie de Seine which stretches from Cap d'Antifer (north of Le Havre) to the tip of Barfleur (north east corner of the Contentin Peninsula)
The Bay has been divided in to 5 fishing zones, all within 12 nautical miles from the coast of which one zone is closed and left fallow each year. The fishing of scallops is strictly controlled and can only be fished from the 1st October until the 15th May, leaving the summer months for reproduction and the shells to grow. The number of boats, their size and their dredging equipment are all regulated with boats only being able to fish on certain days, for a set time per day and within the set zones in the bay. Normandy scallop ports are Port-en-Bessin, Grandcamp Maisy, Granville, Dieppe, Courseulles-sur-Mer, Fécamp and Cherbourg. In October and November most of these ports have a festival celebrating the new scallop season, you can see the small boats arriving back in port, unloading and sending the shells to market. Of course the local restaurants have a variety of scallop recipes for you to try or buy scallops from the market stalls either in their shells or shucked for you.
70% of scallops sold in France come from Normandy. 2/3rds of Normandy's fishing comes from the Bay of Seine's 220 licensed fishing boats, called 'coquillards'. It takes 2 years for a scallop shell to reach its minimum fishing size of 11cm, those shells dredged and too small are returned to the water to continue growing.
Not to forget Normandy's neighbour Brittany, which produces about 6500 tonnes of scallops in the Saint-Brieuc Bay, Saint-Quay-Portrieux and Loguivy-de-la-Mer fishing areas. Restrictions and rules are very similar to those upheld by the Norman fishermen. Brittany scallops are protected by the IGP certification and interestingly the scallops from the Saint-Brieuc Bay take 6 months to a year longer to mature before they can be taken and scallops from this area do not have the bright orange coral in them that Normandy scallops can have.
SAINT AGUR AND BACON SOUP
When it's cold, wet and windy there is nothing better than a good hearty soup to warm you. I have made this soup for years, having first enjoyed it in my local pub in West Norfolk. The only difference as now living in France is I have substituted Stilton with Saint Agur blue cheese. The recipe is so simple and just double up ingredients to make an even larger pot.
1x Leek
1x White Onion
4x Large potatoes
3 litres Chicken stock
60g St. Agur cheese (any blue cheese or even left over Camembert etc.)
200g Smoked bacon lardons
10cl Cream 30% / Crème Fraîche
Chop leek and onion and fry in olive oil in a large pot until softened, add the smoked lardons and fry. Keep stirring and mixing leek, onion and bacon mix. Add the 3 litres of chicken stock add the potatoes and give a good stir. Season with black pepper (no salt as smoked bacon is salty)
Simmer until potatoes are nearly soft and add the cheese. With the potatoes soft and the cheese melted, remove from heat and leave to cool. Once cooled and safe to do so use a hand blender to blend until smooth and no potato cubes remain. Finally add the cream and blend in. Re-heat to serve.
RESTAURANT L'ENVIE DES METS - MORTAIN
Throughout this region there are a number of family owned restaurants offering good simple and inexpensive food at lunchtime.
Having visited the Wednesday market at St.Hilaire-du-Harcouet on a foggy and damp morning, we thought we would find somewhere for lunch. I recalled seeing this restaurant when driving through Mortain-Bocage which is only a few minutes north of St.Hilaire.
As with many 'Plats du Jour' restaurants it is only open Monday to Friday 12.00 to 14.30hrs. The restaurant is run by a husband and wife team employing young staff to serve the tables. We were made very welcome before being shown to our table. I would think that the staff only speak French and the menu is in French on a blackboard.
These type of restaurant I believe generally are catering for the working man and woman, who in France always stops for lunch at 12 noon. Seeing any restaurant with their work vans outside is a good indicator of good food at a very reasonable price.
The restaurant has two set price menus starting at 16.50€ per person. A choice of 5 or 6 starters, main courses and desserts. Simple, but good starters like Assiette de charcuterie, terrine de la Maison, wrap of jambon cru-tartare and eggs mayonnaise are on the menu when we visited. Main courses were grilled steak, chicken, pork and fish etc. each served in a sauce with fries and salad garnish. We both had the lamb chops in a herb sauce, as you don't often see lamb on a French menu. Desserts are the standard French classics - Crème Brulée, Pain Perdu and Tarte Tartin etc.
All 3 courses were delicious, we could see into the kitchen and so knew everything was cooked to order and so no 'ding ding' in a microwave. Often this type of restaurant also includes a pichet of wine or cider in the price, but here any drinks were extra. But at this price how can you complain.
Mortain-Bocage was made infamous during the Battle Of Normandy, it was here on the 7th August 1944 that Hitler ordered his counter attack to push through the American lines to reach the coast at Avranches. American troops were caught resting on Hill 314 and were pounded whilst surrounded for days until General Patton halted the German advance on the 13th August 1944. Perhaps to work up an appetite can suggest walking up the hill before lunch to see the War memorial and a little chapel from which there is an excellent view over the bocage towards Mont. St. Michel.
Restaurant L'Envie des Mets
64 Rue du Rocher
50140
Mortain- Bocage
Tel . No. 02 33 69 72 68
Monday to Friday 12.00 - 14.30 hours
CHINESE RESTAURANTS IN FRANCE
O'Ciel Buffet Mayenne - 866 Bd Paul Lintier 53100 Mayenne Tel: 02 53 95 02 76
Open every day - 12h00 - 14h30 19h00-22h30
O'Ciel Buffet Flers - 838 Rue de Domfront 61100 Flers Tel: 09 85 19 69 09
Open every day - 12h00 - 14h30 19h00-22h30
Delice Wok Laval - 8 Av. de Paris 53940 Saint-Berthevin Tel: 02 43 37 03 79
Open every day - 12h00 - 14h30 19h00-22h30 Friday and Saturday until 23h00
Sometimes you just fancy something different to French cuisine and throughout France most large towns have Chinese restaurants.
However, here they seem to be large establishments offering all you can eat buffets. Locally to us we have three buffet restaurants in Laval, Mayenne and Flers. These restaurants are huge seating 200+ people serving lunch and dinner for a set price for all you wish to eat. Price is approx. 20.00€ per person mid-week with a slight increase at weekends. Each has a large drinks menu with various beers from around the world, wine, soft drinks and cocktails. Naturally drinks are charged on top of the food menu.
The food choice is massive and not just Chinese - Japanese Sushi, fresh seafood (oysters/mussels/prawns etc.) and many varying Chinese dishes. Even frog legs cooked Chinese style. Most of the Chinese dishes are laid out for self-service, personally I prefer to select from the fresh meat, seafood and vegetable section then take to the chef's wok counter where the chef will stir fry and offer to cook your choices in a variety of sauces. If you are in a group and you don't want Asian food there is a still a large choice - pizza, steaks, lamb chops, salads etc. and of course French fries. For dessert the choice seems endless from panna cotta, selection of mousse, pastries, a large choice of fresh fruit and ice creams even charcuterie and a cheese board. One thing guaranteed you won't leave hungry.
The system is simple - when you arrive you will be shown to your table, no reservation required. Once seated the waiting staff will take your drinks order. I suggest you then circle all the food displays to see the incredible amount that is on offer before starting to make your choice. You then take a plate from under the counter and serve yourself, taking as much or as little as you wish. There is no restriction how many times you return and fill a new plate. If you wish to have the chef stir fry your choice, take your plate with the raw produce to the wok counter, hand it to the chef and he will ask you which of the sauces you would like. Wait 5 minutes whilst he fries it in front of you in the wok and then return to your table to enjoy. My only disappointment is that neither of the 3 restaurants we have been to, none do Crispy Aromatic Duck in pancakes with plum sauce - C'est la Vie! When you have finished take your ticket to the bar to pay your bill.
Ok its not the standard of Chinese food you will get in Hong Kong, but its tasty and fantastic value for money.
OMLETTE DE MÈRE POULARD - MONT ST. MICHEL
Mont St. Michel only an hour from La Martinère is the 2nd most visited tourist attraction in France. You may not know but it is also famous for its Omelette which was created by Anne Poulard in the late 1800's. When she and her husband opened the restaurant, visitors to the Abbey would want to eat, but due to different tide times it was difficult for Mère Poulard to predict when and how many visitors would come on any given day. So she created her omelette as a meal which could be produced at anytime and quickly. Her restaurant is still open today and serves the dish to tourists and has been served to Presidents, Prime Ministers and Royalty. It is believed that any potential French Presidential candidate who visits Mont St. Michel and does not eat an omelette will lose the election. ( This has proved correct since the war ) Last time I visited Mont St. Michel an omelette at the restaurant was 35.00€ and not surprisingly is known as the most expensive omelette in France.
So what is special about a Mère Poulard omelette, other than the price in comparison to any other omelette you would be served in France. The restaurant is famous for preparing and cooking its omelettes in copper pans over an open fire, but it is its preparation which makes it different. Most omelettes are made from beaten scrambled eggs then pan fried. Mère Poulard's omelette is described as a soufflé omelette. Having researched some recipes, which the restaurant says is a 'guarded secret' but many chef's have reproduced, I thought I would have a go. No I did not have the special copper pans, but I think this is more a sales pitch and attraction to tourists watching the chef whisk the two eggs. At 35.00€ I would thought the pans would be 28 carat gold, especially as the restaurant is reported to use 450,000 eggs a year. I will leave you to do the maths.
If you wish to have a go, try this -
Put 2 eggs in a mixing bowl and whisk by hand or I suggest with an electric whisk. Start slowly and increase speed until starting to become fluffy and a mousse type consistency.
Heat a frying pan with a 25g of salted butter (over an open fire) or as I used a gas hob.
Once the butter melted and bubbling hot, pour egg mix in. Tilt frying pan until all the base is covered with the egg mix.
Fry for a couple of minutes and the air rated egg mix will rise.
Remove the frying pan from the hob and tilt the pan edge over the gas flame to make certain edges are cooked.
Using a spatular you can gently lift an edge to see that the base of the omelette has browned evenly.
Keep placing on and removing the pan from the hob until you are happy all is cooked.
Finally remove pan from hob and with a spatular roll the omelette in half.
Due to the amount of butter, the omelette should then slide easily on to a warm plate.
The omelette can be eaten 'au nature' or served with a variety of garnishes - cheese, smoked ham, fish etc. A tradition is to serve with Normandy blue cheese.
This was my first attempt - Next time I think I will - 1. Not have frying pan so hot 2. Cover the pan with a lid for a minute or 2 ( off the hob) to cook out the egg mix a bit more. I will add to this post with news of my 2nd attempt at replicating a Mère Poulard Omelette.
FOUGÈRES MARKET
One of our favourite things to do on a Saturday morning is to go to the market in Fougères. This medieval town is only 30 minutes drive from La Martinière just across the border into Brittany. This lively market has abundance of food stalls and perfect to buy excellent quality fruit and vegetables, the freshest of seafood whether you want scallops, mussels or a variety of shell fish, also a great selection of fish which if you ask can be filleted for you. The market has a very good cheese stall, which stocks my favourite cheese 'Cremeux de Bourgogne à la Truffe" a very creamy cheese with a line of black truffles through it. There are also stalls selling artisan home produced goats cheese either plain or rolled in a variety of herbs or black pepper. Plus stalls selling breads and brioche, local honey and home produced jams, ready made meals such as Paella, curries and chicken roasted on an open grill plus one stall we always visit sells homemade pasta and blocks of genuine Italian Parmigiana Reggiano cheese. Having completed our shopping we retire to the very popular 'Café de Paris' in the square, where sitting under the parasols you can people watch whilst enjoying coffee or something stronger.
We suggest to our guests if they wish to see a bit more of the town, to stroll through the market towards the large church at the end of the street. From here you can walk down through the botanical gardens with great views of the castle in the valley below you. The walk meanders down over the river to the castle, which you can visit or stop for lunch at the cafés by the castle entrance. its then an easy walk through a park back to the car park.
RESTAURANT LA FORGE - FONTAINE-DANIEL
We are very fortunate that within an hour of La Martinière we have many high quality restaurants. Only 20 minutes south of us is the Restaurant La Forge in the attractive village of Fontaine-Daniel with its small lake and famous as the birthplace of Toiles de Mayenne, renown for two centuries for producing high quality upholstery fabric which you can view and purchase in the showroom. You can walk around the lake and within the village are a number of art and craft studios you can visit. Annually in early September the village hosts a week-end 'Earth Festival' with many arts, crafts and literary stalls attracting locals and tourists.
The restaurant within a part of the Cistercian Abbey is run by a young chef - William Blondel who trained locally in Laval and at a Michelin star restaurant near Bagnoles-sur-L'Orne. He also broaden his horizons training at a 5* hotel and restaurant in New Zealand.
On returning to France he took over the La Forge creating dishes using local Mayenne produce with an added exotic touch.
We ate here a couple of times before the Chef took over, the food was good but we felt the atmosphere was slightly frosty and over formal. We return recently with friends to celebrate Helens birthday and found it to be far more relaxed. The restaurant has been accepted into the Michelin guide since 2023 and my impression is that the Chef's ambition is to gain a Michelin Star.
The menu has a number of options from the 'The Petit Forgeron' and 'Le For Forge' menus of a starter, main course and dessert for either 39.00 or 57.00€ to the 7 course 'Le Menu Dégustation' for 105.00€ with a wine pairing option also available. There is also a 3 course vegetarian menu for 45.00€ and a children's menu for 13.50€. Naturally this type of establishment has a comprehensive wine list of French wines, which are priced reasonably unless you wish to choose a "Premier Cru" Bordeaux.
All the various dishes we had between us were beautifully presented and delicious. My only criticism and I have experienced this in other high end restaurants is when being served I don't like being lectured in detail describing each individual ingredient which is in the dish.
Not for me but some may like this.
The restaurant is not large seating about 30 diners, a pleasant interior with white clothed tables each seating from 2 to 6 people.
In summer there is a terrace to dine out on over looking the village green and the lake. The restaurant is very popular, so reservations are a must. If you are on holiday in France, I would suggest making a reservation on your arrival or before you leave home, as you are unlikely to get a table if making a reservation on the day. Reservations can me made via their website.
Restaurant La Forge
8 Place de L'Ondine
53100
Fontaine-Daniel
Tel: 02 43 00 34 85
Website: https://www.laforge.restaurant
Open: Wednesday to Saturday ( Closed Monday and Tuesday ) 12h30 - 14h30 19h15-23h00
Sunday 12h15-16h30
Facebook: @LaMartiniereBnB
Instagram: lamartiniere.bnb
La Martinière Gîtes / Bed and Breakfast
53120 St.Aubin Fosse Louvain
Mayenne
France
Landline: +33 (0)243 033062
Mobile: +33 (0)780 333738
Email: contact@gitesmayenne.fr
SIRET No. 891 639 643 R.C.S. Laval