WINTER 2025/26

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Moules à la Crème - L'Auberge de Peintures - Domaine Didier Lemorton - Scallop Risotto on Creamed Spinach

Le Bar and Mad Hatters Salon de Thé - Christmas Lights - Croque Monsieur - La Croix des Landes

MOULES À LA CRÈME

Along the French coastline you will always see Moules for sale in restaurants. Some are served better than others, my bug bear is that often the mussels are not cleaned satisfactorily and you find the sauce at the bottom of the dish, grey and gritty. So doing them at home yourself, you can make the effort to throughly clean the mussels plus I produce the sauce separately so when the mussels are steamed open they don't deposit the grit and dirt into your sauce. Your sauce is then perfect for dipping crusty bread and frites into. 

We are fortunate that we are close to Cancale a French town famous for its mussels, oysters and other shell fish in the Bay of Mont St. Michel, so are guaranteed fresh mussels all year round. Mussels in France are generally available all year, however the best months to buy fresh mussels from the market is when there is an 'R' in the month. (September to April)  

Cleaning Mussels -

Cleaning mussels is easy it just takes a little time, but well worth the effort. There are many myths re mussels and how they can make you violently ill. But by checking and removing any bad mussels you will be fine.

1. Only buy fresh mussels (not imported frozen ones) Mussels don't smell, so if the mussels have a strong fish odour don't buy. 

2. Buy in the middle to the end of the week. Mussels for sale on a Monday were collected the week before.  

3. Place all the mussels in a bowl of cold water.  

4. Go through each individual mussel, discarding any with a broken shell.

5. Remove the beard (this connects it to the rope when growing in the sea) plus scrape off any barnacles with a knife.

6. Floating mussels are perfectly good, they just have air trapped in them.

7. Mussels which are slightly open are also fine. 

Having inspected every shell, rinse a few times in clean cold water. They can then sit in cold water all day until ready to cook.

Some people sprinkle flour over the surface, this they say makes the shell open to eat, enabling it to deposit any grit. But I don't bother with this, but keep rinsing the shells until the water is totally clear and clean.

You will need approx. 750gms of mussels per person. 

Making the sauce -

Sauté a large onion until soft in olive oil and a little white wine. When onion is nearly soft add 4 cloves of finely chopped garlic and sauté. When onion and garlic is translucent and soft, add a 1/3 litre of chicken stock and 1/2 bottle of white wine and simmer until reduced in half. Once reduced, let cool slightly and add 250cl of full fat cream or crème fraîche. Season with salt and pepper, finally adding a handful of chopped parsley. This can be made in advance and re-heated when ready to serve.

Steaming the Mussels -

In a large cast iron pot, add a chopped onion, 2 chopped cloves of garlic and the rest of the bottle of white wine. Drain the mussels and add to the pot once the white wine is boiling. Place lid on top to enable the mussels to steam. Every couple of minutes using a slotted spoon, turn the mussels in the pot so they open evenly. The mussels will have opened after about 5 minutes being steamed. If not keep stirring them for a couple of more minutes. Once you see the shells are open they are ready to serve immediately.

To serve -

With a slotted spoon remove the mussels only and place into warmed bowls. Leave the onion, garlic and white white in the pot. Once all the mussels are removed you will see the liquid in the bottom of the pot is grey and gritty. Discard this. 

Pour your cream white wine sauce over the mussels and sprinkle fresh parsley over the top. 

Serve with some nice crusty bread, frites and mayonnaise. 

L'AUBERGE DES PEINTRES - Saint Cénerie-le-Gérie

Recognised as one of Frances prettiest villages is Saint-Cènerie-le-Gèrie , located on the River Sarthe in southern Normandy. 

The scenic village has many old stone houses and a four arched bridge over the river. The 11th century church overlooks the river and has attracted artists and tourists for many years. There are narrow streets to wander round with many artist studios and craft shops in which you can visit. Beyond the church the track leads you towards the meadows and the 15th century chapel which is said to have been built by Saint-Cènerie. This has attracted many artists to visit since the 19th century to paint the chapel which stands alone in the bend of the river.

We recommend Saint-Cènerie-le-Gèrie to all our guests as a great place to visit and suggest if wanting a meal to eat at L'Auberge des Peintres. This small restaurant with interior or terrace dining is in the centre of the village. Family run offering traditional inexpensive French bistro menu for lunch and dinner. We have eaten here a few times and have always enjoyed their food and the friendly welcome they offer. In high season would recommend making a reservation, as popular with visitors to the village. 

L'Auberge des Peintres

Lieu Dit le Bourg, 61250 Saint-Cènerie-le-Gèrie

Tel: 02 33 26 49 18 

Wednesday - Monday 10h00 - 23h00

Tuesday Closed

Les Entries - from 6.00€  Les Plats - from 13.00€   Les Desserts - from 5.00€ 

DOMAINE DIDIER LEMORTON - Calvados Domfrontais

Not far from us is the farm of Didier and Martine Lemorton just outside the medieval city of Domfront. The family for 3 generations has been highly recognised for their cider and calvados Domfrontais. The farm with its visitors shop is open daily and if visiting in autumn you can see the process of harvesting the apples and pears, crushing, pressing and distilling. You can visit daily, but we suggest making an appointment at harvest time. When visiting Didier and Martine are happy to show you and explain each process in the production of their artisan ciders and calvados, you can also see the large oak barrels in which the calvados is aged. The farm and orchards cover a hundred hectares with forty different varieties of pear and apples. During the autumn harvest, ripe fruits fall naturally to land on soft grass under the trees before being collected and taken to the press.

Didier and Martine produce their Calvados Domfrontais with a precise date of distillation which is printed on the label. 

To qualify for the title 'Appellation Origine Control Domfrontais' the calvados must contain a minimum of 30% pear juice. Unlike other AOC Calvados in Normandy which are only apple based.  The calvados produced by Didier has 70% of pear juice and 30% apple juice.

This local produce is typical of the Domfront Bocage in the Orne area where the mature apple and pear trees flourish. 

Visiting the farm you can taste their different apple and pear ciders, pommeau plus young and aged calvados. You are able to purchase bottles of all their produce, their oldest calvados is 60 years old and was distilled by Didier's grandfather and costs 350.00€ a bottle. Lamorton Calvados is exported around the world and can be found in many Michelin * restaurants in their wine menus as an digestif after a meal. When we were last there we met a regular Japanese buyer who was making his order for distribution in Japan.

Domaine Didier Lemorton

La Baillée Fêtu   61350  Mantilly

Tel: 02 33 38 70 90

www.lemorton.com

Open Daily  9h00 - 19h00

SCALLOP RISOTTO ON CREAMED SPINACH

I have enjoyed risotto dishes throughout Europe, it is a dish you can choose to make with everything. Meat, fish or vegetables mixed in to make an excellent meal. Recently at La Martinière we had an Estonian couple staying with us and as it was their wedding anniversary they asked me to make them a special dinner of my choice. Normandy scallops were in season and as I had recently enjoyed a scallop risotto in a bistro in Saint Malo I thought I would do my own take on it.  Happily the guests loved it.

CREAMED SPINACH 

First wash the spinach as can be gritty and pinch off any large stalks. In a large frying pan gently steam a few good handfuls of fresh spinach. Spinach wilts to nothing, so use plenty. (frozen is ok but fresh spinach has more flavour)

I add a little water and cover the pan and slowly steam until the spinach has wilted down. Once cooled remove the spinach and put into a tea towel and squeeze all the excess water out. On a chopping board coarsely chop the spinach before returning to the frying pan.

Fry the spinach in a table spoon of olive oil adding 2 gloves of chopped garlic, gently frying it. Grate some nutmeg over the spinach and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add a couple of cups of full fat cream and a squeeze of lemon. Stir all together and heat the cream until it thickens. This can be done in advance of making the risotto and gently reheated to serve.

RISOTTO

Firstly prepared 1/2 litre of chicken stock and keep warm. In a large flat pan, sauté 2 finely chopped shallots until soft in 2 table spoons of olive oil. Do not burn the shallots. Add 2 cups of Arborio rice and gently fry for a couple of minutes. Stirring constantly so each grain of rice is coated with the oil. Add a cup of white wine and simmer to enable the alcohol to burn off, then add a ladle full of chicken stock and let it simmer as the rice absorbs the liquids. Risotto takes about 30 minutes to cook in total. Constant stirring is essential and as the rice absorbs the liquid and drys out add more chicken stock. Keep following this process until all the chicken stock has been used. With the last ladle of stock add and stir in a good handful of parmesan cheese. Season with pepper, no need for salt as the parmesan cheese is salty.

As you reach this stage taste a few pieces of rice, you are aiming to have the rice soft but still with a slight bite or as the Italians say it needs to be 'al dente'. If not quite there add a little water until you are happy with the rice. Once al dente the risotto is ready to serve. 

SCALLOPS

Wash and pat dry the individual scallops. The scallops need to be dry otherwise they will spit and not sear properly. Melt a couple of table spoons of unsalted butter in a frying pan and when the pan starts to smoke add the scallops and sear on one side. Turn after 2 minutes and sear the other side for a minute, spooning the hot butter over them. Remove immediately and place on kitchen paper to absorb the butter. I also quickly pan fried some girolle mushrooms before also placing them on absorbant kitchen paper.

As in the photo, to serve I placed the re-heated spinach in a warmed pasta dish. Placing the risotto on top before adding some grated parmesan and the girolle mushrooms. The scallops were then placed on the creamed spinach. 

Recipe for two people

LE BAR and MAD HATTERS SALON DU THÉ

Le Bar and Mad Hatters Salon du Thé is a unique place to enjoy a drink or morning and afternoon tea. Located in the market square in Le Teilleul, a small town on the main road between Domfront and St.Hilaire-du-Harcouët. The bar is owned and run by Yolanda and her husband Martin, who always give a warm and wonderful welcoming. In summer you can enjoy taking in the sun with a drink outside in an area divided off from the market square or in winter warm yourself by the log fire. Yolanda and Martin have worked very hard to attract a good mix of local French and ex-pats by being a little different from your standard bar. The bar has become a central hub in the town if wanting a chat, a drink or a cup of coffee plus for the variety of activities on offer - craft workshops, French lessons, evening quizzes in English and French etc. Viewing the large blackboard in the bar, you can get an idea of the number of future events taking place in the bar or town. The bar is regularly decorated out whether to support local or national charities, Halloween, Christmas etc. or the release of the annual Beaujolais Nouveau. My favourite attraction is the wonderful cakes that Yolanda bakes herself. Ordering a drink you are hard pressed not to be wanting one of her cakes displayed on the bar. Your choice of cake can be eaten in or boxed for you take away and enjoy later. Walking through the bar to the tea room which is decorated as you would expect a Mad Hatters salon to be with an eclectic decor, here is also where the regular craft workshops and French lessons take place.

Opposite the bar is the market square and car parking. There is small market each Thursday 08h00-13h00, plus the square is regularly used for other events including a Cattle fair in August, live music, vintage car rallies, a Christmas market including singing carols around the Christmas tree. Many go to Le Teilleul to visit Arielle Brocante on the hill out of town, would highly recommend after your visit there to pop into town and visit Le Bar and Mad Hatters Salon du Thé.

Opening Times -

Wednesday 16h00 - 21h00

Thursday 8h00 - 13h00

Friday 10h00 - 13h00  15h00 - 21h00

Saturday 10h00 - 21h00

Sunday 10h00 - 16h00

Monday - Closed

Tuesday - Closed

4 Place du Champ de Foire.  50640.  Le Teilleul

Facebook: Le Bar - Teilleul

CHRISTMAS LIGHTS - NORMANDY

Close to La Martinière in south Normandy, villages compete amongst themselves to see which village can produce the best Christmas light decorations. From early December to mid-January you can drive a route between the villages to see their displays. 

We suggest a route to our guests from La Martinière where on a Friday and Saturday evening in St.Mars d'Egrenne they can stop for a vin chaude, baguette saucisse or a crêpe along the route or stop off in Domfront at the Bar Central for a drink and snack. 

CROQUE MONSIEUR

France's most popular snack is possibly a Croque Monsieur or Croque Madam. Many bars and café's offer them throughout France, but sadly most are now factory made, sealed in cellophane and heated in a micro-wave oven. Ok they will fill a gap and see you through the day, but in comparison to a real hand-made one they just don't compare. 

Making your own is simple and an ideal lunch time or Sunday evening snack served with a green dressed salad. 

Ingredients -

Rustic sliced bread

Dijon mustard ( grain or smooth )

Sliced Smoked ham

Bechamel sauce with cheese ( Sauce Mornay )

Grated cheese ( Comté or Gruyère )

Worcestershire or Tabasco sauce ( my optional choice )

Toast 2 slices of Rustic bread either in a toaster or under the grill. Make a béchamel sauce using butter, flour and milk. Whisk until smooth, season and add a handful of grated cheese and a small teaspoon of Dijon mustard. Make certain you simmer the sauce for a few minutes to cook out the flour, but being careful not to burn it.  With the béchamel/mornay sauce ready, spread one side of toast with Dijon mustard and add a slice of smoked ham. Once the sauce has cooled slightly, spread some of the sauce over the ham on one side of the bread and sprinkle grated cheese on top. If you wish now you can add a few drops of Worcestershire/Tabasco sauce. Place the second slice of toast on top and repeat with a spread of mustard, slice of smoked ham and béchamel sauce. Finally topping with grated cheese. 

It's now ready for the oven and grill. Place in the oven for 10 minutes to heat béchamel sauce and finish off under the grill until the top layer of cheese is well melted and starting to colour. Serve with a green salad tossed in a vinaigrette dressing. That is a real Croque Monsieur, should you wish a Croque Madam, simply fry an egg and place on top.  

LA CROIX DES LANDES 

A restaurant we have visited a few times, firstly with the previous owners and now with the new patrons - Anthony and Émilie Bourgain. Internally the decor hasn't changed from its American diner feel and but outside is a terrace for summer dining. Previously the food on offer was good but we feel it has now risen a notch or two. Émilie runs the front of house with her husband Anthony in the kitchen. Having both worked in restaurants for many years and owning a restaurant in Landisacq, Anthony wanted to move back to his roots in Domfront-en-Poiraie and they opened the La Croix des Landes in September 2023. 

The menu is written out on an A frame blackboard, which is moved from table to table to enable you to make your choices. The menu has a good selection of starters, mains and desserts and dishes change regularly. So plenty to choose from. The menu is traditionally french cuisine with tripe and Andouillette sausage (not my choice), but also steak, lamb, chicken and pork dishes plus a selection of homemade Burgers all with a choice of potato dishes or salad. Daily there is a 'fish of the day' chosen by Anthony directly from the fish man who visits the restaurant three times a week. We visited recently and Helen and I had the sole meunière, which was as good as I have had in fine dining restaurants. 

Prices are more than acceptable and Émilie always gives a warm welcome.  The restaurant is very popular, so advisable to make a reservation. 

Opening Times -

Monday 12h00-14h30

Tuesday  12h00-14h30

Wednesday  12h00-15h00  19h00-21h30

Thursday 12h00-14h30

Friday  12h00-15h00  19h00-21h30

Saturday  12h00-15h00  19h00-21h30

Sunday. Closed

Route de la Férté Macé. 61700 Domfront-en-Poires

Tel: 09 81 91 41 48